Track Cut Stone

The Two Moors Way – My Way (Part One)

With the rapid increase in leisure time, long distance walking has become a major holiday and leisure activity. In the UK there are a number of long distance walking routes, formed by linking paths, rights of way, lanes and roads into one continuous route passing points of interest, exceptional views, national parks, important coastlines, etc.

The Two Moors Way runs between Ivybridge in South Devon and Lynmouth on the Bristol Channel.

My son Jonathan was keen to do this one, and had carefully researched the route. His principal source of data was “The Two Moors Way” by James Roberts and published in 1994. We acquired this from a secondhand bookshop, but it may now be out of print. There are also various websites including  Devon County Councils own www.devon.gov.uk/twomoorsway.pdf

The total distance is between 100 and 102 miles, depending on the source upon which you rely, and close inspection will reveal options, including at least 3 different choices of route around Widecombe in The Moor, not to mention your own choice of paths to encompass points of interest specific to you and your party.  Whilst the publication by James Roberts  is very helpful, there are parts which seem to not relate to what is visible on the ground. We also relied on OS Maps Explorer OL28, and Landranger 191. Furthermore Jonathan had down-loaded a useful application for his Blackberry which gave us co-ordinates and maps via GPS.

The recommendation is that the whole is covered in 5 days! This is a bit of a (blistering!) pace of 20 miles a day, which I don’t believe gives time for enjoyment. Consequently we decided to attempt the southern half of the route over a 3 day period. Our  proposal was to walk from Ivybridge to Holne on Day One, Holne to Chagford on Day Two, then Chagford to Copplestone on Day Three. We booked a twin room at The Church House Inn in Holne for the first night, and bed and breakfast in Chagford  for the second night. Camping was an option, but not one I relished after a 15 mile hike over moorland!

We set out on a drizzly Monday morning in July 2011, taking the train to Ivybridge. The day before we had dropped off a car at Copplestone, just north of Crediton, as public transport is a bit scant in Mid Devon.

Once out of the comfort of the train it was time to strap on the gaiters, adjust the rucksack straps and trudge determinedly up the tarmac road leading from the station straight onto Dartmoor. This was a steady climb, deteriorating into a path, before passing through a bridle gate onto open moorland. At this point we met the first of just 5 people we would encounter before leaving the moor later in the day.

Immediately map reading skills were required, because the route was not clear on the ground. At Hangershill Rock, the first high point of the day, there are tremendous views back towards Ivybridge and ahead across Ugborough moor. You soon pick up the old tramway which leads you northwards across the moor. There is real evidence of the industrial past as you proceed – old mining workings, pits and processing plants long ago abandoned. By now you have climbed to about 450 metres above sea level, with a striking river gorge immediately to the left of the tramway. At a loop in the tramway is a perfectly preserved bridge over an outlet from a flooded clay pit. We brewed up here and ate our lunch, despite the cold westerly wind, low cloud and persistent drizzle. The water in the claypit felt surprisingly warm. On a sunny day would this be a tempting spot for bathing?

As we proceeded further, sidings and cuttings become evident, and evidence of further industrial complexes, now destroyed and abandoned. At this point we met our next couple of walkers, who were heading back to Ivybridge having spent the night camping at Nuns Cross Farm, near Princetown.

We now needed to leave the tramway, striking off to the right. This point was clearly waymarked, and coincided with the landmark of a large spoil heap visible over to our left. But soon the open moorland was obscured by fog and drizzle, requiring more careful map reading. This coincided with the necessity to turn over the map! Fortunately a small stone building was still intact and afforded some shelter from the wind and rain to carry this out without fatal damage to the map!

Then a steep descent into the river valley and a clapper bridge which allowed us to cross to the northside, before following the river east to the parish boundary. Here we encountered the last 2 people we were to see before leaving the moor.  From here we again struck north, up hill past Huntingdon Warren, a clearly defined enclosure across the dip, but not inhabited since the 1950s. Over Pupers Hill and Buckfastleigh Moor, we then had to find our exit from the moor onto the green lane leading to Scorriton. The pine tree clumps and a fine white property on the far slope are a distraction, but here the way is quite clear. A rustling and grunting from the bracken in the field on our right reveals a saddle-back gilt. She is soon joined by a large white gilt, then more appear until about a dozen pigs are talking to us, eagerly hoping we have come with their food.

The green lane soon becomes firm, with delightful small enclosures on both sides. Friesian and Devon Red cattle, mown hay, and 3 people struggling uphill in a brand new golf buggy, with a distinctly terminal smell emitting from the engine.

Scorriton had a pub, but being mid afternoon we bypassed this straight down the hill crossing the river bridge and into a green lane straight up to Holne.  And lo and behold, the fine white property we had spotted earlier was our hotel for the night!

Muddy boots off at the door, a welcome pint in the bar even though it was not yet open, and a relaxing shower before supper. The friendliness, hospitality and service were remarkable, and I hope the Church HouseInn has a good summer – they deserve it!  www.churchhouseinndartmoor.co.uk

James Roberts’ guide states that you turn left out of the door of the hotel at the outset of Day 2, and he is not wrong. With the sun trying to shine, we passed the camping barn, up the hill, left at the top where we encountered the council hedge trimmer, then right onto a pathway leading down through a wooded valley towards New Bridge. This is a delightful descent past horses, sheep and stunning views of the white-water, then into the valley of the River Dart, just north of Ashburton.  At the carpark, where there is normally an icecream van, we went sharp left up through Hannaford Farm onto Aish Tor. The Two Moors Way offers an alternative at New Bridge of going straight on, looping round below Poundsgate and the famous Tavistock Inn, before approaching Aish Tor from the east.

Climbing Aish Tor towards Dr Blackalls Drive, Jonathan hurt his left hamstring, but after taking a muscle relaxant was able to continue.

We stopped to take in the view on the west of Aish Tor, when a column of horses and their riders approached in the opposing direction. We watched as 3 walkers took cover in the gorse, but we didn’t have that option. Why are there certain women riders, in charge of a group out hacking, who think they own the moor? We decided it best to ignore her obvious contempt for walkers, but shared our commiserations with the other walkers once they had emerged from the bushes!

Why also does it rain every time the map has to be turned? Our bright and sunny morning had quickly deteriorated into a squally shower the moment I had the map out of its case!

We crossed Sherberton Common, passing an isolated bungalow in its own enclosure on our right, before dropping down into  Ponsworthy. There is a further choice of direction at Sherberton, but as we wished to take in the ancient enclosure of Grimspound this was the route for us. The alternative takes one west towards Dartmeet then north towards the Warren House Inn.

It looks as if you are entering someone’s garden at Ponsworthy, but the footpath goes beside the garden wall and runs up the west side of the stream. This is quite shady and very attractive, although the path soon deteriorates into something more like the Undercliff at Lyme Regis. Finally leaving the path at Jordan mill house, we started a steep climb onto the moor, resting for lunch on a wide verge at Drywell.

After a refreshing snack of the lunch packed for us by Church House Hotel, we continued our climb and soon rejoined the moor as we passed through a fine stone gateway. Local farmers were busy cutting their crops away to our left, and separately hauling farmyard dung into another enclosure. These activities were still visible for the next hour, such is the panorama from these hills. We crossed the road, and forked left in the unofficial carpark, walking across the slope towards Hamel Down. Again at this juncture the Two Moors Way gives  you the option of going straight ahead to Widecombe.

Our route was again not clearly defined, but by gauging the distance on the left between us and the enclosures we struck a fairly accurate path across the slope to a form of “saddle”, which is the cross route from Widecombe, before climbing more steeply up the slopes of Hamel Down to a final height of 532 metres above sea level. This becomes a ridge with burial mounds, a stone cairn and absolutely stunning views across the moors, to encompass the North Moor behind Warren House and of course Widecombe in The Moor nestling down to our right. Finally at Hameldown Tor there is a magnificent view of an early enclosure on the opposite slope. Is this Grimspound? No, walk a little further and the vista opens up below your feet to reveal the more remarkable stone circle of Grimspound, with its own smaller stone circles inside. We sat here awhile and took in the peace and tranquillity, albeit shared by a number of other tourists who had walked up from the road below. Who had lived here? What made them choose the site – north facing? What do the larger and smaller stone circles mean? Why are we so interested in it?

As we were rather behind schedule, we decided to skip the next section to Warren House inn, and head directly to Chagford. This was a deliberate deviation from The Two Moors Way, but we were determined that it should still be interesting.

We descended to the parked cars on the road, and struck out north to Challacombe Cross. Here we went right for 500 yards along the more major road towards Moretonhamstead, leaving the road at the viewing point on the first sharp right hand bend. By following a track across the open moorland we left the moor on a greenlane, taking us to Lettaford.

Here we turned left on another greenlane, passing through interesting woods, a scrap yard then a New Age site, before crossing a ford onto a green in the hamlet of Jurstock. Here we turned right on the minor road towards Chagford. This was more pleasant farmland with sheep and hens on both sides of the lane, only spoiled by speeding motorists. Significantly two blocks of desirable riverside land are for sale.  At the crossroads we took the greenlane straight ahead through Yellands up onto Meldon Common. As we climbed the hill we meet a gentleman farmer who had lavished a small fortune on renovating his house and outbuildings to a very high standard. He runs 25 head of cattle to keep the land in shape, and reported that many of his neighbours are tenants of the Duchy of Cornwall.

Dogs were being exercised on Meldon Common, a sure sign that civilisation was just round the corner!

A steady pace down the hill past Meldon Hall, and we were in Chagford. Our reception committee comprised of a local proclaiming he was very drunk, having spent the afternoon with a friend, and would I like £1.50 for my sponsored walk? I politely declined, explaining that was not the purpose of our walk, and immediately found Cyprians Cott, our bed and breakfast for the night.

Again we had a wonderful reception here and nothing was too much trouble for our hostess Shelagh Weedon. www.cyprianscot.co.uk. Later we took in the sights of Chagford and had a very good meal at The Globe. It was Italian night, with a very authentic menu, and equally authentic Devon live music!

After a good nights rest and a very hearty breakfast we bade our farewells and ventured into Chagford market square to stock up for lunch. What a choice! This bustling outpost, whilst very compact, had a great delicatessen, bakers, butchers, ironmongers, fruit and veg store, various hair dressers, souvenir  and tourist traps, a Spar shop, solicitors, and I even noticed 2 estate agents, including Rendells the well known moorland auctioneers and valuers.

We walked north out of the market square, having secured baguettes and fruit from the independent traders, the houses on our exit route having a certain Breton feel to them. We passed the garage, before forking left towards the river, the outdoor swimming pool, and an obvious colony of chicken farms on the flood plains of the River Teign. At Rushford Mill chicken farm, we turned right onto a riverside path which took us on an excellent riverside route, crossing the Drewsteignton road at Dogmarsh Bridge. The first section is a real delight. After crossing the road it becomes much more open, obviously better used, and not nearly so attractive. Suddenly we close in on the river again, and our path turns sharply to the left, uphill towards Castle Drogo. The modern and perfectly engineered bridge takes one across the Teign to who knows where? Straight ahead is Fingle Bridge – we don’t want that route, its too easy!

Despite the climb it is really tranquil through the woods, overlooking a farm on the left with a herd of domesticated deer. Soon there is a sharp turn back to the right and we are beneath the castle. The path is like a goat – track cut out of the Sierra Nevadas, with marvellous views onto the riverside tree canopy below, and later the castle above and behind us. As we reach the summit, we must turn left, climbing over the crest, dropping down through woods, and finally along a track into Drewsteignton. It is only here, loping from the back of someone’s garden that I see my first wild deer.

Drewsteignton was disappointing. I have visited the Drew Arms in the past, when “Nan” was still in charge, and the village seemed alive and vibrant. Today it seems clinical, even dead. Maybe too many incomers, working away and the cottages empty during the day. Admittedly the village shop was busy, and we used their seat for a 5 minute map change, but I can only repeat my disappointment.

We left Drewsteignton down the road again northwards towards the A30. Straight on at the next 2 right hand curves in the road. As we approach the river bridge we are greeted by a very friendly, small black Labrador who seems to be in charge of some buildings on the left, and more interestingly a field on the right with a large marquee and numerous blocks of stone in various states of dismemberment. We are soon joined by David, the sculptor. David explains that he is setting up a sculpting course. Many people are descending on the locality to participate in a number of courses run by local artisans. David has run the sculpting course himself for a number of years. This year, in recognition of his past input, he has the chance to recharge his batteries and be a candidate on the documentary film-making course, run by a colleague, and which forms part of the overall week of events. Over100 candidates will be entertained every night in the village pub, with local food and award-winning story tellers and other activities. David even offers to take us by car to our destination – what a stalwart member of the community!

We walk on over the river bridge, then bear left through a farmyard, then keeping straight ahead up a path. There is a rather interesting S1 Land Rover sitting in the farmyard.

We are finally leaving Dartmoor and heading for the A30, to cross over into mid Devon. We follow beside a stream with telegraph poles on our right, strangely with no obvious cables suspended from them. There is a steep climb at the end of the path to Winscombe, and a continued climb to the old main road where it too crosses the A30. We can hear the road noise, and soon stand above traffic rushing to and from Cornwall. Next right into a farm track, then open farmland.  The fields are softer here, and we take lunch just past Manor Farm.

The route is quite clear ahead of us as we eat a roll and pasty. Down through 3 enclosures to West Ford farm, then right into the woods. Why is there an abandoned caravan fridge in the woods, so far from vehicular access and the wrong side of the river?

Then up to Hill Farm, passing an enclosure of Dartmoor ponies. At the top are seemingly abandoned vegetable gardens, and secret paths weaving through high hedges. Real mid Devon country, rather wild with unkempt enclosures, towering hedges taking up unnecessary acres, the ground underfoot pock-marked from animal hooves in the wet; butterflies, vetch, foxgloves, clumps of reeds and a feeling that time has stood still. The unkemptness gives a marvellous stillness and warmth to the vicinity. Through another gate into equestrian country, then a farm track to Hittesleigh Cross. By now it is 2.15 and we want to be at Copplestone by about 5pm. The GPS tells us we have 6.5 miles to go. The Two Moors Way follows the road for a couple of miles, then dives off left with at least 2 options around Colebrook and completely bypassing Copplestone as it heads towards Morchard Bishop.

We decide for expediency to stick to the road towards Yeoford, then left at North Down to Colebrook, Coleford, finally following the railway line into Copplestone. This is good marching country and we arrive in Copplestone at 4.50.

We will be back to do the rest!

About the Author

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